DAY 21: September 14 (Burgos to Hornillos del Camino 24km)
This is an exciting day as we take our first steps into the great agricultural plain of Spain—the Meseta! The guide books describe this as a “hard country where wind, cold and rain can be miserable for the pilgrim”…..hmmm
As we begin the skies are cloudy but Dad is sure they are not storm clouds. We do have a strong head wind (15 mph gusting to 25) so we tie our hats on.
The trail is mostly very rocky with spots of loose gravel which means each step has to be a careful one.
The landscape is gentle hills growing more sunflowers, what looks like a flax crop and fallow fields. Most of the soil is like chalk and it is evident that water is a problem here. It is not a difficult walk but it does seem to go on and on. Even the villages have disappeared now. Despite the head wind we know we are making good time. We suspect the posted distances cannot be correct. Later, talking with others who travelled the same route, there is agreement that the distance was 3km more than stated. That means we walked 27km today—too far for us. Fortunately it was following a rest day:-)
Our room tonight is in a “hybrid” –not a rural casa and not an albergue. It is very small but just fine. The owner was not here when we arrived so we waited almost 2 hrs before we discovered he had left the key at the store across the street!
Hornillos is a small town and there is only one bar/restaurant.
We finally got seated with two Irishmen, both our age. They were fun and charming dinner companions. All in all it was a great day.
NOTE; Apparently the vastness and the emptiness of the Meseta can have an effect on people causing them to hallucinate and believe they are Jesus or one of the disciples. Apparently, the same thing occurs with pilgrimages to the Holy Land and is known as “Jerusalem Fever”. Anyhow, so far neither of us has succumbed–at least we seem normal to each other:-) We will keep you posted.